Lijiang

Reading the old town correctly

The old town is a maze of lanes, canals, and bridges, built by the Naxi people over centuries. It is at its best before 9 a.m., when the shop shutters are still down and the water channels are the loudest thing you can hear. Walk uphill to the Lion Hill viewpoint for orientation, then come back down and get deliberately lost in the quieter northern lanes.

The Naxi are a distinct ethnic group with their own Dongba script, music, and religious traditions. You will see the script on souvenirs; you will understand more by visiting the Dongba Culture Museum or by spending time in a village outside the tourist core. The old town is a stage; the villages are the household.

• Old town at dawn, before the shops open
• Lion Hill for a roofscape view and orientation
• Dongba Culture Museum for Naxi history and script
• Baisha and Shuhe villages for a less staged version of the region

What to do beyond the postcard

Baisha is a short bus or taxi ride north of Lijiang and has a slower pace, a famous set of Ming-era murals, and good views of the mountain. Shuhe is closer and more commercial but still pleasant early in the day. Further afield, the road to Tiger Leaping Gorge and Shangri-La passes through landscapes that are the real reason to come to this corner of Yunnan.

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain is the headline excursion. It is expensive, crowded, and weather-dependent; the cable car goes to about 4,500 metres, where altitude can hit unprepared visitors. If you go, book in advance, bring layers, and do not schedule it for your first day at altitude. The mountain is also visible from Lijiang on clear mornings, which may be enough.

• Baisha's murals and village lanes
• Shuhe at opening, before the day trippers
• Jade Dragon Snow Mountain only if the forecast is clear
• A day trip toward Tiger Leaping Gorge, even if you do not hike

Timing and the tourist economy

Lijiang's altitude is 2,400 metres, high enough that some visitors feel mild breathlessness on stairs. Take the first day slowly, drink water, and avoid alcohol. The town is cold at night for much of the year; heating is not always as robust as it looks in the photos.

The tourist economy is intense. Restaurant menus have photo translations and prices to match; the same dish is cheaper a few lanes away. This is not a reason to be cynical, but it is a reason to walk ten minutes before choosing. The old town is best treated as a place to sleep and eat, with your real days spent outside it.